I've been waiting to make this post for a long time. Kimchi is one of my absolute favorite foods, never mind just fermented products. I go through a whole jar pretty much every week, and I have gotten to the point where my fridge downstairs is a storage for kimchi (what most Koreans use their second fridge for exclusively). There are over 200 varieties of kimchi!! They range from salty to sweet to mild to spicy, and they can be made traditionally or from non-traditional ingredients. Paired with meat, or soup, or literally anything savory, it takes the dimensions of flavor to another level. Kimchi's really amazing, I cannot say enough good about it. According to the sikyung, a Korean historical document, kimchi was invented around 4000 years ago as a method of preservation for vegetables. Kimchi is derived from two Chinese characters for salted vegetables, as it originates from China, but what distinguishes it from Chinese ferments is the short incubation period. It was traditionally made in onggis, traditional earthenware which housed beneficial microorganisms within its walls and helped the fermentation process begin. Kimchi can be classified into 2 types: seasonal and winter, where the method of preparation depends on vegetables available at the time and different seasonings. Kimchi can also be subdivided by temple style and generic style, where the former prohibits the use of alliums such as scallion, garlic and onion. For example, dongchimi radish kimchi is one type without gochugaru that is made during kimjang, the UNESCO dubbed event of making kimchi. This particular kind contains a smaller amount of salt than normally used, as to achieve higher levels of fermentation. Even Northern and Southern kimchi differ by the use of beef broth in winter kimchi, instead of seafood. Contrary to popular belief, not all kimchi is red, as white kimchi, or mul kimchi is very popular as well. There are several theories on the origin of pepper in Korean cuisine, or when kimchi started containing gochugaru, but the idea that before the 1600s there was no red pepper does not hold weight according to a large body of research on the history of kimchi. Perhaps it was less prevalent and white kimchi was more common, but there are several practices dating back to the 13th century and earlier detailing the use of red pepper in kimchis. Despite the differences between the kinds of kimchi, it is a lacto-ferment, as the primary cultures within it are in the lactobacilli genus, and the type of fermentation produces lactic acid as a byproduct. According to one PubMed study on the electrophoresis of a generic kimchi's macrobiotic community; “Pediococcus pentosaceus, Leuconostoc citreum, Leuconostoc gelidum, and Leuconostoc mesenteroides were the dominant bacteria in kimchi. The other strains identified were Tetragenococcus, Pseudomonas, Weissella, and uncultured bacterium”. Another source on the history of kimchi says that Leuconostocs, Lactobacilli, and Weissella are the main types of bacterial cultures, but experts agree that Weissella is more present in kimchis with gochugaru (Korean chili powder, see image above) present. It is interesting to note that the type of bacteria present affects the quality of the kimchi, as according to research done by Korean academic scholars on kimchi profiling, “L.mesenteroides is the important microorganism responsible for kimchi fermentation, whereas lactobacillus plantarum, which is considered to be responsible for making sauerkraut, deteriorates the quality of kimchi”. So not every lacto ferment relies on exactly the same strains of bacteria: diversity is critical to the survival and taste of a ferment! In kimchi, CO2, organic acids, ethanol and many other metabolites contribute to the flavor profile along with certain amino acids from fish products such as anchovy sauce (like in my last post) and brined, salted shrimp. Many of the compounds derived result from the unique fermentation process, as Kimchi is normally fermented less than other types of preserves, with an incubation period of 3 days. It only needs this time period because the growth of LAB cultures accelerates with the presence of additional starch from the added porridge of glutinous rice flour and amino acids, and it is traditionally consumed at a certain maturity. The ingredients in kimchi play a crucial role in the shelf life of the ferment: for example, Gochugaru deters harmful bacterial growth and promotes LAB cultures. Garlic, ginger and scallion all act as antibacterial agents, and salt's osmotic ability reduces the water activity so that spoilage is less likely to occur, and fewer bacteria can survive in the environment. Fermented seafood and meat ingredients also contribute to the strength of the microbial community in kimchi by acting as a back slop, where beneficial cultures are already introduced into the mixture prior to fermentation. They also provide amino acids for certain bacterial strains to consume, and thus establish a strong microbial community. There are usually 4 stages to kimchi making: brining, seasoning, fermenting, and storing. First, the vegetables are either submerged in a brine to remove excess moisture or salted and forcefully mixed to achieve the same result. Then, seasonings such as garlic, starch porridge, rice syrup, ginger, red pepper, anchovy sauce, scallion and brined seafood are added and thoroughly mixed by hand. Traditionally Koreans did not use much sugar in their cooking, so starch was used for saccharification purposes along with brown rice syrup for some sweetness. The addition of red pepper powder supposedly increases the diversity of microbes within the ferment, which prolongs the shelf life of kimchi, but it is not required as aforementioned. The kimchi is then fermented at ambient temperatures of 65-70 degrees Fahrenheit, relying on spontaneous bacterial growth. Higher temperatures as mentioned above help to accelerate fermentation, while the range 40 to 55 degrees slows it down to and affects the rate of metabolic compound production (Note: if you decide to make kimchi [which you should], don't be discouraged by discoloration, as it may indicate that your batch has oxidized, but not necessarily spoiled). Kimchi is then stored for the winter months underground in the onggis for up to six months, and even a year, and depending on the season the jars are then unearthed. Kimchi making is an art: it relies on native microbial community for fermentation, so it is incredibly difficult to mass produce. It is also the national dish, however, and when Koreans travelled on Apollo XIII, scientists developed a portable version that did not contain live cultures but had some of the same flavor profiles so that they could eat it in space! It is an integral part of the culture, and as such families pass down their respective recipes, some of which are guarded heavily to the next generation. There are even a few individuals in Korea who are certified as living national treasures in kimchi making! Kimjang is so important in Korean culture that it has been certified as a UNESCO world heritage tradition in fermentation, where families and the community come together to make kimchi a few times during the year. As beautiful and intricate as kimchi making can be, it doesn't require the same complexity at the home level, and it can be one of the easiest ferments to make. It's basically a less fermented version of sauerkraut, and can even be eaten non-fermented as a seasoned vegetable side dish. There are SO many uses for kimchi, and it is delicious once you get past the smell. Honestly, I like the smell because I am used to it by now, nor did it really bother me to begin with. The images above are an idea I had for deconstructed Korean barbecue, where bulgogi meat is usually paired with a series of banchan, or smaller side dishes and kimchi. You can use either beef or pork, but I don't recommend chicken for this recipe, as it doesn't stand up quite as well to the strength of the flavors.
Braised Pork, Kimchi Foam, Kimchi and Sweet Potato Ingredients: - 2-3 oz braised pork - 1/2 tsp sesame oil - 1/2 tsp soy sauce - 1/2 tbsp gochujang (Korean fermented chile paste) - 1 tsp rice vinegar or persimmon vinegar, traditionally made in Korea - 1 tsp mirin(fermented glutinous rice wine) - 1 sweet potato, roasted in the oven in foil at 350˚F for 1 hour or until completely cooked through - 2 tbsp combination of EVOO + ghee - 200 ml kimchi brine - 1.6 g xantham gum or 2 g gelatin - Homemade kimchi (there are so many recipes out there, use them!) - Microgreens or finely julienned scallion greens Method: 1) If using xantham gum, shear gum into kimchi brine using a high speed blender until completely immersed. If using gelatin, dissolve into kimchi brine for about 5 minutes, then heat on low until completely dissolved. Transfer to an iSi whip, load with 2 cartridges NO2 and refrigerate for at least 4 hours. 2) On medium heat, heat the oil and ghee until smoking. Form a 2 x 4 inch rectangular slice of sweet potato using a knife, and place gently in the oil. Baste while cooking and try to get as even a color as possible. Once browned, take out of pan and transfer to a plate lined with paper towel, and season with smoked salt. 3) Mix the pork with the ingredients above; the pork should ideally be warm for serving. 4) To plate: using a ring mold, portion the pork onto a dish, and then lay the potato slice next to it. Decorate with some kimchi, a few pinches of microgreens. Shake the canister about 5 times, then pipe some of the kimchi foam out. Enjoy!
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AuthorFood is the universal language. Archives
May 2020
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